Pleating a Ruff -- Lg fig 8

This is concerning the making of Renaissance/Elizabethan ruffs that are pleated into the neck band seam and not attached in the fig 8 manner to the outside of the neck band. 

I found several tutorials and methods for creating ruffs. At the time, I used the Generator from ElizabethanCostuming.com but found that I could not get the fig 8's small enough.  They resulted in fairly large ruffs.  I then found a linkfrom the same website that stated one should use the circumference of the neck x 5inches + 2, then mark every 3/4".  I decided that this produced the proper large fig 8 ruff, but I found that I had to adjust a bit.  So I came up with my own formula so I could get uniform reproductions of my ruff. (If using hook and eye to close: (((Neck Circ+1)*3.75)+0.5)+((3*4.5)+0.25)); if using ribbon to close: ((((Neck Circumference+0.75)*3.75)+0.5)+((3*4.5)+0.25)).  I decided on the extra ((3*4.5)+.25) to account for some playing room.  The breakdown of the formula is thus:

• The first "1" is the one inch I add to the neck circ. to give breathing room (the neck band accounts for the same).
• Multiplied by "3.75".  This is how much fabric is needed for one full pleat.
• Plus .5.  This .5 is the lingerie hem on either end of the ruff.
• The extra is what I learned I needed to compete the ruff to exact measurements.  Which probably means I simply didn't calculate the original fabric amount needed for one full pleat properly.  But it works and took me hours to figure out, so I am not messing with it.

The short side measurement for the ruff is the desired distance from the neck to outer edge of ruff + 1" (For seam allowances).  I have found for my purposes 1.75" (+ another 1") creates the fig 8's that I want.  Note: the longer that distance the larger the fig 8's.

So all together.  Let's assume a neck circumference of 15 and I am closing with a hook and eye.

The formula works out like this:

15+1=16

16x3.75= 60

second half

3x4.5= 13.5 ==> 13.5+.25=13.75

so all together:

60+13.75= 73.5

The ruff length is 73.5" and width is 2.75"

To pleat:

• Finish the outer edge and ends of your ruff material using a lingerie (1/4" turned 1/4" again) stitch. 
• Mark the unfinished long edge every 3/4" (be sure to mark 1/2" from the raw edge). Remember to mark the finished short edges too. 
• With knotted thread and needle, pick up the first mark, on the finished short edge. Then pick up for more marks, for a total of 5 marks. 

• Pinch the marks slightly to create a crease. 
• Matching the dots/marks, bring the creases together. Pull the thread taught. 
• Stitch in place to hold the pleats. This has created 4 pleats on the opposite side of the fabric. 
• Run the thread to the next mark using a running stitch. This mark is the first in the next set. 
• Repeat steps 3-7 until you've created all the gathers. 
• Once all the gathers have been secured tie off thread. 

• Open one set of pleats out, with two pleats laying in one direction and the other two laying in the other. 
• Secure with a running stitch. Continue to the next set. 
• Now find the center pleat and line it up with the center of the neck band. Right sides together (you will have to decide which is your right side for the ruff) and raw edges lined up, pin in place. 
• Baste over the pleats. 
• Fold the band in half lengthwise. Pin in place. 
• Pin the inner lining (this is ususally as long as the neck band and half the width) to the short edge of the neck band. Sew through all the layers on the short, being careful not to catch the ruffs. 
• Repeat for the other side 
• Clip corners. 
• Turn right side out. And push out the inner corners to create a nice 90o angle. 
• Fold the free raw edge under about the distance of a seam allowance (theoretically ½ in). You are encasing all the raw edges of the ruff and band within. 
• Secure the edge to the ruff in which ever stitch you prefer. 

 **This was a tutorial meant to address the actual pleating to result in large figure 8 ruff.  I did not include the band in calculating the cuts.  To calculate the band: neck circumference +2 = length-- the 2 inches is 1 inch for breathing room and 1 inch for the seam allowances.  The width is (desired finished width x2)+1.  Times 2 because this is a folded neck band.  +1 to account for the 1/2 seam allowances.

If you have questions, please feel free to leave a comment or contact me directly.

New Upsycle-- A safety riding vest

I have a motorcyle (HD V-Rod) and often ride with my husband on the military safety rides.  This precipitates the need for a reflective safety vest.  Until now, I've been using my husband's PT cheap reflective vests.  Not only are they ugly, but they fly all around while careening down the highway at 65mph.  So I decided to create one myself that will satisfy the requirement and be more "sexy".  This will also be stored in my motorcycle saddle bag for use at night when we are caught out on a ride at night.

 

Reflective tapes and piping, white nylon, & blck leather jacket

Here is the leather jacket I purchased from a second hand store.  I bought the nylon, reflective tapes and piping from a fabric store.  Not pictured are the grommets (silver) that I will use to make the sides adjustable.  I want the vest adjustable so that I can use it over my other riding jackets or by itself (or if I lose weight, which is a goal).

• The first step will be to remove the zipper, sleeves and collar.  I will salvage the lining too, to be used in lining the vest.
• I will create a "cyncher" to attach to the leather bustier portion from the nylon.  I will also need to create an inner lining from something durable, ie duck/drill, leather, etc.  (I haven't decided how I will do that yet).
• Next I will cut bottom portion of the leather jacket, saving it create a leather pouch.  I may have to create a couple of darts under the breasts.
• I will baste the inner lining to the nylon.
• Next, I will layout and sew on the reflective tape.  Then I will line the top portion of the cyncher with the piping.  
• Now to attach the cyncher to the bustier.
• Then, I will line the whole thing with the piping (center front, side-over-the-shoulder, and bottom).
• I will then attach the zipper (salvaged from the front of the jacket and cut shorter).
• Then for the lining attachment.
• Finally to set the grommets on the sides, under the arms.  I will set them in a spiral lacing fashion, like I do with the Elizabethan wardrobes.

As a side note, I will also reuse the sleeves to create removable sleeves for the vest later on.

The Plans for the "ZEMA" Upcycle .

Recently I visited the second hand store and found a leather jacket, sheath dresswith vest, and a home decor item that I thought would make a very earthy faerie up-cycle garment.  Below you will find the plans.  The items that crossed out were plans that I found to be unneeded or that I changed my mind as I went along.  If the line description is in green it was an idea added as I went along.

• Steps for the DRESS:



Second hand sheath & vest

• remove the embroidered elephant pocket. 
• remove the buttons from the bottom front.
• make an inverted pleat beneath each breast
• cut a deeper "V" into the front center neck
• add a standing collar to dress neckline
• create and add lacing loops to the "V" in the center front neck
• (2/23/11) Where the elephant was is a shaded area, this I will attach leather to to create a nice edging for the collar
• cut the sleeves of dress with a "V" into the center cap;cut from the sleeve of the dress to create a "V" fall.
• split the dress seam all the way up the sides to the waist.
• add cotton/linen to the sides (similar to the Heather dress)
• maybe curl the edges of the sides (create a seam up the front and back) and the front and back, back on itself
• use the buttons on the back as decoration
• find buttons to create a decoration on the sides and front as well.
• sew a "V" on the back neckline down the center of the back about 6-8 in.
• create a waist cyncher that is permanantly attached to dress; laces on the sides
• maybe use the lace from the triangle fabric or trims to adorn the cyncher.
• A new note (2/23/11): I saw something that inspired me to add a new detail.  This will be faux hood and sleeves-- ethereal feel.  The Heather design had sleeves similar to those I will utilize for the Zema.
• 
  
• Steps for the dress SLEEVES:



home decor item with lace

• add linen or cotton to the sleeves-- billowy
• see if there is enough either of the dress jacket or of cotton/linen to create a fall of fabric at the wrist that falls
• gracefully from the under the jacket.
• using the dress vest make cloth bracer cuffs to attach to the wrist of the sleeve linen/cotton
• decorate the wrist bracers like the cyncher

• Steps for the JACKET:



leather jacket

• will add two more sets of grommets in front of jacket to create a "cyncher"
• split the side seams of the jacket
• turn the collar of the jacket lapel under and stitch down.
• flip the collar of the jacket to create a standing collar.

Finished Product

The "Zema" went live last week and here are the steps I took to completion.

I had a change of idea--Inspiration!  I decided that I wanted to make a line of Steampunk Elven Designs.  So the Zema became just such.

I did no use the leather jacket-- this was one of those times where going with the flow instead of forcing my will turned out a great product.

The neck line with the wool applique
and gears.

Drape seen from behind, falls of linen
at hem. The sleeves seen hanging.

Gear and watch parts applications.

• I cut the neckline down, as with the "Heather" Upcycle.  The problem I faced with the Zema was that the pocket seen on the original dress left a shadow on the breast.  To cover this, I made a wool applique.  
• I added  a drape made of linen at the neck line. It is edged in brown satin ribbon.
• The sleeves were made of linen as well and are long.  They can be left hanging free or worn attached at the wrist.
• The wrist cuff is made from the cut away sleeves on the original dress.
• I assembled various different gears and watch parts to create different areas of conversation: the apex of each linen spring at the hem, along the curves of the wool applique, and at the wrists I used gears to button the band closed.



The waist cincher and front view of
the gown.

• A classy touch is seen in the waist cincher.  It is made from scraps of leather that is to be used with my Hattie doublet later on.  I used two belts found at a second hand store.
• The falls of linen at the back can be worn down to trail gracefully behind or can be hooked up on the gears at the back to keep it out of the dirt and mud.
• All the falls at the hem were overlocked with a dark brown thread.

Rear fall seen
trailing behind.

Rear fall seen
attached to the
gears.

Sewing a Straight Line

Sometimes we discover techniques that are sure to have been thought of already.  Sometimes we come up wit them ourselves.  In this case, several sources were used together to accomplish this task.

Whilst working on a corset and sewing the stay channels, I lamented that my chalk lines were simply too wide and caused too much variance.  I thought back to the days my mother first taught me to use a sewing machine.  She, after removing the thread and bobbin, had me sew a piece of lined paper to get the hang of the machine.  If I could sew a straight line along the printed lines then I could use thread in the machine.  (Thanks mom!  I still use this method when teaching others to use the sewing machine!)

Then it occured to me that a friend of mine showed me how to spray glue a piece of paper, with the desired design printed on it, to a piece of fabric.  Then sew through the paper and fabric following the printed design. Afterward remove the paper and viola!  More perfect a design you can not find!  (Thanks Lynnette!  I can certainly learn from others, and I am thankful for this idea!)

 

The paper with stay channels glued in place

STEP 1:  I went to the computer and worked out markings slightly larger than 1/2".  I used a "]" at the regular intervals both at the top and bottom of the page (I used landscape for the page options).  Then printed. *

STEP 2: I marked the corset pattern with using the printed guide from step 1.  I then connected the matching lines with a ruler.  ** I had already drafted my corset pattern and cut the fabric, but because this was an afterthought method, the draft was only half.  Now I will draft my corset patterns as full patterns**

STEP 3:  In my bath tub, I placed the fabric pieces, already spray glued together, and then spray glued the top piece of fabric.  Working carefully, I placed the paper pattern on the top-- making sure it lay as perfectly as possible.

Step 4
Sewing through the paper and fabric

STEP 4:  I sewed through the paper and fabric along my lines.

Step 5
Removing the paper--
went to water method

STEP 5: Once all had been sewn, I found that, to protect my stitching, I had to place the whole project into the tub and use water to soften the paper.  Once all paper was removed, I tossed the corset into the washer to clean-up under the stitching.







ALL DONE!  Yea!  I was pleased.  When using my older method , the stay channels weren't as even and straight as I would like.  This new method produces a much more uniform product.

* I use double the stays when I create a corset so the channels need to have enough room to accommodate the depth of two stays.



Warmest Regards,

Getting a straight Line to cut on Satin or Silk

Sometimes with slippery fabrics getting a straight cut can be frustrating,  With fancies like silk or satin you can find the straight line with a few easy steps.

Step 1:

Measure to the spot you need to cut, down one side (I usually apply these steps to the raw edge too before I start the length I need, to square it up) tiny cut is made, gently pull one thread (the one closest to the apex of the cut).

Step 1

Step 2:
Pull the thread gently and the fabric will start to gather.  Sometimes you can gather the whole width of the fabric, sometimes the thread snaps.  If the the thread snaps, move onto step 3 and 4, then come back to step 2 if it is needed.

Step 2

Step 3:

Smooth out the fabric and a straight line will "magically" appear.

Step 3

Step 4:

Cut along your nice straight line!

Step 4

Final look

Final look

This works best, I believe, with tightly woven farbics-- I tried it with a cotton/poly broadcloth and it didn't work as nicely.  However with a little effort, I am sure I (or someone else) will come up with the method that works best.

I would like to extend my heartfelt appreciation to my mom for showing me this trick while making my wedding dress over 18 years ago.  Thanks mom!

Warmest Regards,

Up-cycling from Second Hand to Fantasy Glam

I was introduced to up-cycling in a round about way.  So roundabout, I can't even remember all the twists and turns.  But it hit me recently that I should consider the option to optimize and expand my customer base (right now via Etsy).

I purchased two dresses from Goodwill, one embroidered green buttoned down sheath and a purple silk sheath.  The green is a M(edium) and the purple is a size 4.

Size Medium 

Size 4

  
  

I started with the green.  Put it on the dress dummy and sliced up the side seams, popped all the buttons but two, and turned down the neckline to create a better view of the cleavage.  I then pinned in the ribbons at the shoulder (needed more-- purple) and pinned in a white gauzy cotton for sleeves.

The fabric around the waist is a mock-up for the waist cincher.

***
Finished product and notes:

(click for larger view)

(click for larger view)

(click for larger view)

The transformation: Added cotton gauze to the sleeves and at the side seams of the green dress.  Ribbons at the shoulder and at the bicep of the arm of various colors.  Removal of the original ties in the back and cut and re applied to the front as loop holes for lacing.  A redesign of the neckline to allow for a deeper scoop.

(click for larger view)

(click for larger view)

The Partial cape : cut up both side seams of the purple sheath dress.  Hung sideways from the neck to cover the arms or hang from the back.









The waist cincher was made from purchased linen/cotton blend and appliqués and lacing grommets added.

I guess that covers it, LOL!

Warmest Regards,

Canions Come Alive

Canions


To do:

• draft on paper
• transfer to waist fabric
• cut
• main fabric 2 on fold
• lining 2 on fold
• cut on bias
• apply trims and decorations
• sew
• main
• lining
• waistband
• hand sew
• leg bottoms
• waistband
• closures

Notes:

The construction of canions can be daunting as there is little forgiveness.  I made this pair for my 9yr old son.  I needed to stick with my initial thinking on ratios, inches added to the measurement--which I didn't do.  For the:

• Waist:   1" seam, 2" give
• outside seam (waist to knee):   1" seam, 2" extra
• Inseam (apex crotch to knee): 1" seam NO extra
• Hip:  1" seam, 2" give ** Should have added 3" **
• Circumference of quad right above knee: 1"seam, 2" give

As a note the wise: when drafting the back side of the canions, make sure the back takes into account the bubble of the butt.  So it should be higher than the front.  I have experienced this before, and forgot to account for it.  


Pickle's canions fit perfectly except in the back where I could have added about 3" more to the height to accommodate his rear.

Warmest regards,

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