The Plans for the "ZEMA" Upcycle .

Recently I visited the second hand store and found a leather jacket, sheath dresswith vest, and a home decor item that I thought would make a very earthy faerie up-cycle garment.  Below you will find the plans.  The items that crossed out were plans that I found to be unneeded or that I changed my mind as I went along.  If the line description is in green it was an idea added as I went along.

• Steps for the DRESS:



Second hand sheath & vest

• remove the embroidered elephant pocket. 
• remove the buttons from the bottom front.
• make an inverted pleat beneath each breast
• cut a deeper "V" into the front center neck
• add a standing collar to dress neckline
• create and add lacing loops to the "V" in the center front neck
• (2/23/11) Where the elephant was is a shaded area, this I will attach leather to to create a nice edging for the collar
• cut the sleeves of dress with a "V" into the center cap;cut from the sleeve of the dress to create a "V" fall.
• split the dress seam all the way up the sides to the waist.
• add cotton/linen to the sides (similar to the Heather dress)
• maybe curl the edges of the sides (create a seam up the front and back) and the front and back, back on itself
• use the buttons on the back as decoration
• find buttons to create a decoration on the sides and front as well.
• sew a "V" on the back neckline down the center of the back about 6-8 in.
• create a waist cyncher that is permanantly attached to dress; laces on the sides
• maybe use the lace from the triangle fabric or trims to adorn the cyncher.
• A new note (2/23/11): I saw something that inspired me to add a new detail.  This will be faux hood and sleeves-- ethereal feel.  The Heather design had sleeves similar to those I will utilize for the Zema.
• 
  
• Steps for the dress SLEEVES:



home decor item with lace

• add linen or cotton to the sleeves-- billowy
• see if there is enough either of the dress jacket or of cotton/linen to create a fall of fabric at the wrist that falls
• gracefully from the under the jacket.
• using the dress vest make cloth bracer cuffs to attach to the wrist of the sleeve linen/cotton
• decorate the wrist bracers like the cyncher

• Steps for the JACKET:



leather jacket

• will add two more sets of grommets in front of jacket to create a "cyncher"
• split the side seams of the jacket
• turn the collar of the jacket lapel under and stitch down.
• flip the collar of the jacket to create a standing collar.

Finished Product

The "Zema" went live last week and here are the steps I took to completion.

I had a change of idea--Inspiration!  I decided that I wanted to make a line of Steampunk Elven Designs.  So the Zema became just such.

I did no use the leather jacket-- this was one of those times where going with the flow instead of forcing my will turned out a great product.

The neck line with the wool applique
and gears.

Drape seen from behind, falls of linen
at hem. The sleeves seen hanging.

Gear and watch parts applications.

• I cut the neckline down, as with the "Heather" Upcycle.  The problem I faced with the Zema was that the pocket seen on the original dress left a shadow on the breast.  To cover this, I made a wool applique.  
• I added  a drape made of linen at the neck line. It is edged in brown satin ribbon.
• The sleeves were made of linen as well and are long.  They can be left hanging free or worn attached at the wrist.
• The wrist cuff is made from the cut away sleeves on the original dress.
• I assembled various different gears and watch parts to create different areas of conversation: the apex of each linen spring at the hem, along the curves of the wool applique, and at the wrists I used gears to button the band closed.



The waist cincher and front view of
the gown.

• A classy touch is seen in the waist cincher.  It is made from scraps of leather that is to be used with my Hattie doublet later on.  I used two belts found at a second hand store.
• The falls of linen at the back can be worn down to trail gracefully behind or can be hooked up on the gears at the back to keep it out of the dirt and mud.
• All the falls at the hem were overlocked with a dark brown thread.

Rear fall seen
trailing behind.

Rear fall seen
attached to the
gears.