This is concerning the making of Renaissance/Elizabethan ruffs that are pleated into the neck band seam and not attached in the fig 8 manner to the outside of the neck band. 
I found several
tutorials and methods for creating ruffs. At the time, I used the Generator
from ElizabethanCostuming.com but found that I could not get the fig 8's small
enough. They resulted in fairly large ruffs. I then found a linkfrom the same website that stated one should use the circumference of
the neck x 5inches + 2, then mark every 3/4". I decided that this
produced the proper large fig 8 ruff, but I found that I had to adjust a bit.
So I came up with my own formula so I could get uniform reproductions of
my ruff. (If using hook and eye to close: (((Neck
Circ+1)*3.75)+0.5)+((3*4.5)+0.25)); if using ribbon to close: ((((Neck
Circumference+0.75)*3.75)+0.5)+((3*4.5)+0.25)). I decided on the extra
((3*4.5)+.25) to account for some playing room. The breakdown of the
formula is thus:- The first "1" is the one inch I add to the
neck circ. to give breathing room (the neck band accounts for the same).
- Multiplied by "3.75". This is how much
fabric is needed for one full pleat.
- Plus .5. This .5 is the lingerie hem on either
end of the ruff.
- The extra is what I learned I needed to compete the
ruff to exact measurements. Which probably means I simply didn't
calculate the original fabric amount needed for one full pleat properly. But
it works and took me hours to figure out, so I am not messing with it.
The short side measurement for the
ruff is the desired distance from the neck to outer edge of ruff + 1" (For
seam allowances). I have found for my purposes 1.75" (+ another
1") creates the fig 8's that I want. Note: the longer that distance
the larger the fig 8's.
So all together. Let's assume
a neck circumference of 15 and I am closing with a hook and eye.
The formula works out like this:
15+1=16
16x3.75= 60
second half
3x4.5= 13.5 ==> 13.5+.25=13.75
so all together:
60+13.75=
73.5
The ruff length is 73.5" and
width is 2.75"
To pleat:
- Finish the outer edge and ends of your ruff material using a lingerie (1/4" turned 1/4" again) stitch.
- Mark the unfinished long edge every 3/4" (be sure to mark 1/2" from the raw edge). Remember to mark the finished short edges too.
- With knotted thread and needle, pick up the first mark, on the finished short edge. Then pick up for more marks, for a total of 5 marks.
- Pinch the marks slightly to create a crease.
- Matching the dots/marks, bring the creases together. Pull the thread taught.
- Stitch in place to hold the pleats. This has created 4 pleats on the opposite side of the fabric.
- Run the thread to the next mark using a running stitch. This mark is the first in the next set.
- Repeat steps 3-7 until you've created all the gathers.
- Once all the gathers have been secured tie off thread.
- Open one set of pleats out, with two pleats laying in one direction and the other two laying in the other.
- Secure with a running stitch. Continue to the next set.
- Now find the center pleat and line it up with the center of the neck band. Right sides together (you will have to decide which is your right side for the ruff) and raw edges lined up, pin in place.
- Baste over the pleats.
- Fold the band in half lengthwise. Pin in place.
- Pin the inner lining (this is ususally as long as the neck band and half the width) to the short edge of the neck band. Sew through all the layers on the short, being careful not to catch the ruffs.
- Repeat for the other side
- Clip corners.
- Turn right side out. And push out the inner corners to create a nice 90o angle.
- Fold the free raw edge under about the distance of a seam allowance (theoretically ½ in). You are encasing all the raw edges of the ruff and band within.
- Secure the edge to the ruff in which ever stitch you prefer.
If you have questions, please feel free to leave a comment or contact me directly.
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