I have made quite a few doublets, mostly for my boys. With diligence I can usually get a doublet and paned slops/ britches done in about 10hours.
What I have begun to do, however, is take measurements then draft onto grid paper. The drafting takes about 2-3hours, because I dally while doing it. Instead of reinventing the wheel, I find a doublet either on line, from Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion", or some other source, where I can get ratios down. For example, for a particular cut of doublet I will decide what the neck back ratio to bottom (waist) seam is. Then I apply my son's measurements with the ratios.
This was done with Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion: c1560-1600", pgs 79-80, 1590-1600 Jerkin. I am experimenting what tabs I want to apply. I have also decided to go with the less technical method of producing a collar-- wait until I get to the point of applying the collar then measure it from the near finished product. I tend to have a n issue with getting collars to the right side, even when I add 1in for seam and 1.5in for room.
The above pics are the patterns created from the drawing on grid paper.
The chevron design has a contrasting fabric segment that I will apply as an applique. Then I will run an overlock sticth along the chevron design. A trim (in gold) will complete the design by running along the "V" bottom and on the sides of the contrasting fabric. When cutting the applique I will, instead using chalk or other marker, use fray check to mark the edges, then cut. I then use a spray glue to hold the applique to the main body before sewing it on and running the chevron overlock stitch.
With regards to the amount to add to the measurements taken, Janet Arnold states at the end of her book "Patterns of Fashion: c1560-1600" that one should add anywhere from 2-8", depending on what padding and clothing is worn underneath.
For Pickle's (the one I have demonstrated here) I added anywhere from .5-2" (on top of the 1" for seam allowances). If it was a length, I added .5-1". If it was a width or circumference I added up to 2". The only exception was the armpit, it ended up being almost 5" larger than the beginning measurement. I think this is because the arm moves forward or naturally rests forward which means the comfort level will demand it be larger.
Epilets. For Nickolas' I chose a split epilet. No neat notes here except that make sure the curve on the inside curves in (concave).
The front portain starting at the shoulder seam.
The back epilet starting at the shoulder seem. This reaches to the gold trim on back
I did put a skirting on, but did not take notes or pictures. And I seemed to have not given enough of an outer curve.
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