Sunday, March 14, 2010

Corset Contemplations

Given a choice I choose a boned tabbed corset every time.  I have worn a tab-less corset and the farthingale burn was murder.  The boned tabs create a barrier against drawstring waists.  

I have always made my own corsets and from a variety of materials; so now I have my design preferences down.  I like it to be made from drill/fustian (or even twill if a lighter weight is needed) for the inner shell with sewn channels.  Beyond that I prefer one of two designs: a. a silk shell lining on both the inside and outside-- this is good for those whose doublet might be undone on a hot day. Or b. running a double folded bias tape along the edges.

  
I found the corset generator about three years ago and use it pretty exclusively, though I will experiment with the Dorothea and Elizabethan Effigy corset
 


I began my corsetry with modern metal grommets that I inserted into the fabric then couched with embroidery floss.  However, I find that I prefer to handwork the lacing holes-- it is just as easy and accomplishes the same thing without the cost of grommets.


In general, I run about 11 channels for steel stays vertically across the front, two channels into each tab and a set on either side of the lacing holes.  And each channel holds two steel stays in the front-- for extra stiffening.


Materials:
1- 1.5yd  of fustian or drill or twill
3 - 4yd   of bias tape or the like
2 - 3      skeins of embroidery floss
1 - 1.5yd of silk or fancy fabric (optional)
approx. 37 steels stays
             thread


Warmest Regards,

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