Given a choice I choose a boned tabbed corset every time. I have worn a tab-less corset and the farthingale burn was murder. The boned tabs create a barrier against drawstring waists.
I have always made my own corsets and from a variety of materials; so now I have my design preferences down. I like it to be made from drill/fustian (or even twill if a lighter weight is needed) for the inner shell with sewn channels. Beyond that I prefer one of two designs: a. a silk shell lining on both the inside and outside-- this is good for those whose doublet might be undone on a hot day. Or b. running a double folded bias tape along the edges.
I found the corset generator about three years ago and use it pretty exclusively, though I will experiment with the Dorothea and Elizabethan Effigy corset
I began my corsetry with modern metal grommets that I inserted into the fabric then couched with embroidery floss. However, I find that I prefer to handwork the lacing holes-- it is just as easy and accomplishes the same thing without the cost of grommets.
In general, I run about 11 channels for steel stays vertically across the front, two channels into each tab and a set on either side of the lacing holes. And each channel holds two steel stays in the front-- for extra stiffening.
Materials:
1- 1.5yd of fustian or drill or twill
3 - 4yd of bias tape or the like
2 - 3 skeins of embroidery floss
1 - 1.5yd of silk or fancy fabric (optional)
approx. 37 steels stays
thread
Warmest Regards,
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