Padme Senate 2 Gown part 1

Padme Senate Dark gown

I was approached several months ago about doing two reproductions of Padme's gowns.  One is called the "Invasion" (Black) and the other "Senate" (blue/blue).  We had to switch to one called "Senate Dark".  I said ok.  And now I am scared.  At first, I had only gone on a few pics, but yesterday I pulled up a hoarde of more and now I pray that I can get this accomplished.

To start with, I created a corset, per customer's request and a farthingale.  I have seen replicas whereby the farthingale seemed too small.  I opted to go with 117" I hope that it is enough.  I did a mock-up originally of the first Senate gown which was a bodice.  With the switch I had to alter the bodice to a doublet style (high neck).  We never see what the sleeves for the undergown are, but being the practical human that I am, I decided to take some liberties with the under dress so that if the top gown needs to be removed for comfort's sake the underdress could be beautiful in it's own right.  I will attempt to enumerate as we go.

So to start with, the pattern for the underdress (bodice an skirt).  I am treating the skirt as a separate piece than the bodice.  I do this for two reasons: 1.  the pics show a separate piece as evidenced with shadows; 2. having a separate skirt reduces the stress on the bodice fabric.  I inner line and line all my work--habit.  The purpose of inner lining  (ie made with drill or bull denim) is to give a nice foundation and smoothness to the bodice.  Lining just finishes the work and gives it a more professional finish.

Neck Pattern Piece-- use neck circumference, neck height in back, and neck height in front.  Don't forget your 1/2" seam allowances!  Be sure to add about 2" to neck circ to keeping choking/gagging to a minimum and subtract 1/2" from neck heights for similar reasons.

Customer measurements: 13" neck circumference, 4" back neck, 3" front neck

Customer measurements: 13" neck, 12" armpit to waist, 17" neck to waist,
6" neck to edge of shoulder, 17" armpit, 34.5" waist, 40" breast, 37" chest, 

Bodice Front Pattern Piece -- use armpit to waist, waist, breast, neck circumference, neck to outside shoulder, armpit circumference, base of neck in front to waist (plus desired extra length in front, ie 2").  Remember to add about 2" to neck and armpit circumference to allow for comfort.

Customer's measurements: 34.5" waist, 13" neck circ,12" armpit to waist,
6" neck to shoulder 18" neck to waist, 40" breast, 37" chest, 17" armpit, 

Bodice Back Pattern Piece: use measurements for neck circumference, neck to shoulder, armpit, armpit to waist, waist, base of neck to waist in the back, bust, chest



















CORRECTED BODICE BACK***:


Final thought for today: I think it is important to make a dress mummy.  You can see the process (super easy!) in the presentation below: (it is designed to be viewed by my customers, please disregard the mailing info.  After the presentation is a link to a post that describes the stuffing portion):



Dress mummy stuffing link: http://mistressrhenncostuming.blogspot.com/search/label/dress%20dummy

More later.  I will have to cover the bead work next.
Warmest Regards,