Showing posts with label senate dark gown. Show all posts
Showing posts with label senate dark gown. Show all posts

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Padme Senate Gown pt6


What did I accomplish: beading the chevrons on the skirt and bodice.
The Chevrons (Original gown Star Wars)

I began the skirt beadwork while my daughter, a thousand miles away, was working on the beadwork at the breast and neckband.   Each night I would knock off at the workshop, head to my bedroom, turn on the TV and sit for another 3 hours to work on the handwork for the skirt (and later the bodice).


Marked chevron lines on the inner lining
Sewn chevron lines on the outer fabric forepart
Firstly, I figured out that the angle of the chevron was a beautiful 90o.  I marked out the "Vs" on the inner lining in the back ( a stiffer drill/denim fabric).  I figured the bottom V on the skirt was about ⅔from the top, the second was about half that distance, and the top was about half the distance again.** Message me at designs.by.rhenn@gmail.com if you want the exact calculations.**  The bodice was beaded along the waist at the bottom and along the bottom of the beadwork at the breast.  I then split the difference for the middle.  After attaching the inner lining to the main forepart fabric, I sewed along the V lines that I had marked on the inner lining.  This created a nice clean look on the outer fabric for me to use as a guide.

 At first, I tried doing the beadwork as I always do by gathering 4-5 seed beads on my needle and thread, laying them against the line, pushing the needle through the fabric at the end of the 4-5 beads, then coming up from under and securing the middle of the 4-5 bead set.  Then I would move onto the next 4-5 beads.  I didn't like how that lay, because the thread was so fine, the seed beads would drape on it and lay unevenly.

Instead, I purchased a thicker twine, used for making bracelets.  I measured the length needed, with extra for ease of mind sake.  I used fray check on the ends of the twine to keep it from fraying as I beaded hundreds/thousands of beads on it.  (Let that dry hard!)  I tied off the end loosely and worked from the other.  Then I sat for hours stringing the beads.
Strung beads being sewn to
 the guiding line



Strung beads demonstrating the
securing  method
After stringing the beads, I tucked the side I had been using to string into the seam at the right place (the end of the chevron) and secured the twine to the seam allowance.  I then laid the strung beads along the line and secured it every 4 beads or so.  I tied off every so often with a knot, just in case the one stitch gave way, my customer wouldn't lose the whole row.  I made sure the beads were just loose enough that when I got to the bottom of the V (the point) I could make a clean angle up the other side.  When I got to the point of the seam, I removed any excess beads (which explains the need for a loose knot earlier) and tucked the twine into the seam and secured it to the seam allowance.
Three beads being strung to create a cluster at the point of
the V
Measured 5/8" from the previous
 cluster to create the new cluster
Completed cluster

Then starting at the point of the V, I brought my needle through the fabric from the bottom to the top and strung 3 beads.  I pushed the needle through the fabric at the same location I came up and drew the beds down, creating the little cluster.  I then measured from that point  ⅝" and repeated the method for creating the cluster.  NOTE!  Tie off each cluster with its own knot (it is not necessary to clip the thread).  That way if one gets caught and breaks away, you don't lose an entire line of clusters.

BE SURE to secure the strung beads every 3-4 beads to keep the line even, and make sure there is enough give among the beads keep them from bunching up on themselves.



Friday, July 27, 2012

Padme Senate 2 Gown pt 3


July 26, 2012:  Ok.  The part (one of them) that scares me: the neck and chest bead work. I blew up these pics and traced the pattern (as best I could) and created a template.  There are pics at this address that give some great detailed shots.  Something that I noticed in one of them is that it appears that the bead work was done on a separate waist fabric, trimmed, then sewn on like an applique.  I can't substantiate this however, when looking at other pics.  So I will be doing the bead work straight to the main fabric (that is already had the inner lining basted to it and neck attached--now they are treated as one piece).


Finding the Navette stones (flower petals) is NOT easy.  However, I did do some serious internet searches and found gold and cobalt colored sew on rhinestones.  Unfortunately, they are acrylic.  I will sew them on on their own string so that should crystal ones be found they can be easily replaced.  I approximated that there were 18 flowers comprised of both 3 yellow and 3 blue "petals", tons of dark blue seed beads, and half the amount of golden (not metallic) seed beads, and both blue and yellow round cut gems.

Padme Bead work pattern for
chest (not the neck)
The tools and materials needed: fabric tracing paper, pattern, washable/disappearing fabric marking tool, thread, beading needles (for fabric not stringing necklaces), scissors, beads, embroidery hoop.

Pattern for chest: it is apprximately 5" tall.  The picture is a 1/2" image vertically, flip it for the other half of the breast.  There are yellow seed beads that create clusters as does some blue.
















And the neck:  I haven't marked it  yet.  But here it is.








The picture to the left shows tracing paper for fabric (chalk on one side) I chose to use for transfering the pattern for the bead work onto the bodice.















July 27, 2012:  Ok.  So changes.  I was hoping to use the tracing paper and I did.  I tried blue, white, and pink.  The fabric wouldn't take the chalk.  So I nearly cried.  Then celestial music sprang forth (not from me, of course, because I worse than a toad with a cold).  I own a projector and a fabric pen that will write on the moire fabric. So.  Now to figure out which wall to project onto.

I had to get a decent copy to project.  So I made the template below.  The horizontal band near the top is actually the neck line of the bodice and the "heart" above it is the center front of the neck neckline.

UPDATE: I was wrong about the horizontal band; it actually runs horizontal from center front out almost exactly horizontal.  It seems to end somewhere along the shoulder seam.

Breast Bead work

Neck template


























I will update all of the posts as I go, so be sure to sign up for updates!


Update: August 3, 2012:  Since I was concerned about time constraints I farmed the beadwork out to my daughter (she has always done my beadwork in the past).  I also invested in an inexpensive embroidery machine, but more on the later.  

Warmest Regards,

Padme Senate 2 gown pt 2

We get to the fun stuff after the bodice pattern is cut, tried on, adjusted, and pressed.

Now we have 12 pieces-- 3 each of the neck and bodice front, and 6 of the back.




Press them all.
Baste 1/4" from the raw edges of  the fancy fabric to the inner lining (shown in gold moire and brown) with WRONG sides together.

Fancy fabric basted to the inner lining.


















I also used fray check on the moire edges since it would be handled so much during the beading phase.




Warmest Regards,

Thursday, July 26, 2012

Padme Senate 2 Gown part 1

Padme Senate Dark gown
I was approached several months ago about doing two reproductions of Padme's gowns.  One is called the "Invasion" (Black) and the other "Senate" (blue/blue).  We had to switch to one called "Senate Dark".  I said ok.  And now I am scared.  At first, I had only gone on a few pics, but yesterday I pulled up a hoarde of more and now I pray that I can get this accomplished.

To start with, I created a corset, per customer's request and a farthingale.  I have seen replicas whereby the farthingale seemed too small.  I opted to go with 117" I hope that it is enough.  I did a mock-up originally of the first Senate gown which was a bodice.  With the switch I had to alter the bodice to a doublet style (high neck).  We never see what the sleeves for the undergown are, but being the practical human that I am, I decided to take some liberties with the under dress so that if the top gown needs to be removed for comfort's sake the underdress could be beautiful in it's own right.  I will attempt to enumerate as we go.

So to start with, the pattern for the underdress (bodice an skirt).  I am treating the skirt as a separate piece than the bodice.  I do this for two reasons: 1.  the pics show a separate piece as evidenced with shadows; 2. having a separate skirt reduces the stress on the bodice fabric.  I inner line and line all my work--habit.  The purpose of inner lining  (ie made with drill or bull denim) is to give a nice foundation and smoothness to the bodice.  Lining just finishes the work and gives it a more professional finish.

Neck Pattern Piece-- use neck circumference, neck height in back, and neck height in front.  Don't forget your 1/2" seam allowances!  Be sure to add about 2" to neck circ to keeping choking/gagging to a minimum and subtract 1/2" from neck heights for similar reasons.
Customer measurements: 13" neck circumference, 4" back neck, 3" front neck













Customer measurements: 13" neck, 12" armpit to waist, 17" neck to waist,
6" neck to edge of shoulder, 17" armpit, 34.5" waist, 40" breast, 37" chest, 
Bodice Front Pattern Piece -- use armpit to waist, waist, breast, neck circumference, neck to outside shoulder, armpit circumference, base of neck in front to waist (plus desired extra length in front, ie 2").  Remember to add about 2" to neck and armpit circumference to allow for comfort.















Customer's measurements: 34.5" waist, 13" neck circ,12" armpit to waist,
6" neck to shoulder 18" neck to waist, 40" breast, 37" chest, 17" armpit, 
Bodice Back Pattern Piece: use measurements for neck circumference, neck to shoulder, armpit, armpit to waist, waist, base of neck to waist in the back, bust, chest



















CORRECTED BODICE BACK***:


Final thought for today: I think it is important to make a dress mummy.  You can see the process (super easy!) in the presentation below: (it is designed to be viewed by my customers, please disregard the mailing info.  After the presentation is a link to a post that describes the stuffing portion):



Dress mummy stuffing link: http://mistressrhenncostuming.blogspot.com/search/label/dress%20dummy

More later.  I will have to cover the bead work next.
Warmest Regards,