Farthingale Fathomings

A farthingale, also known as a hoop skirt, helps to create the idea of floating when a woman is walking.  It was reserved for the noble class, though, a wealthy merchant could pay the Sumptuary tax and wear a farthingale of a modestly sized circumference.

The hoops could number anywhere from 3-9 tiers. I generally just do the 3, simply to save on cost.  I haven't yet found more to be necessary.  There are two methods I've used to create the channels for the steel hoops: a. I sew twill tape along the path or b. I create channels simply by sewing them into the fabric.

I have also used two methods to form the skirt portion itself: a. I have used a gathered method, whereby I merely take a length of fabric (the length is the total of the bottom tier circumference +1" for seam), ply whichever method I wish to the channels then sew the seem up.  I string a string through the waist channel, hooping wire through the hoop channels, then adjust the gathers.  This method leaves a nice impression on the top skirts as the gathers kind of hide the hoops.  But it is frustrating in that the gathers shift.

b.  The other is to create an infinite gored skirt, sew in/on the channels, then insert the hooping wire and string.  This is nice because the farthingale keeps its shape rather nicely.  The downside is that it very easy to see the hoop tiers on the outer skirts.

Warmest Regards,

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Corset Contemplations

Given a choice I choose a boned tabbed corset every time.  I have worn a tab-less corset and the farthingale burn was murder.  The boned tabs create a barrier against drawstring waists.  

I have always made my own corsets and from a variety of materials; so now I have my design preferences down.  I like it to be made from drill/fustian (or even twill if a lighter weight is needed) for the inner shell with sewn channels.  Beyond that I prefer one of two designs: a. a silk shell lining on both the inside and outside-- this is good for those whose doublet might be undone on a hot day. Or b. running a double folded bias tape along the edges.

  

I found the corset generator about three years ago and use it pretty exclusively, though I will experiment with the Dorothea and Elizabethan Effigy corset

 

I began my corsetry with modern metal grommets that I inserted into the fabric then couched with embroidery floss.  However, I find that I prefer to handwork the lacing holes-- it is just as easy and accomplishes the same thing without the cost of grommets.


In general, I run about 11 channels for steel stays vertically across the front, two channels into each tab and a set on either side of the lacing holes.  And each channel holds two steel stays in the front-- for extra stiffening.


Materials:
1- 1.5yd  of fustian or drill or twill
3 - 4yd   of bias tape or the like
2 - 3      skeins of embroidery floss
1 - 1.5yd of silk or fancy fabric (optional)
approx. 37 steels stays
             thread


Warmest Regards,

A Personalized Dress Dummy UPDATED**

I have one hip that is rotated forward which results in one shoulder riding lower than the other.  A regular pattern and regular dress dummy make it difficult to customize to myself.  So inspiration hit (God usually knocks me over the head) and I thought: "What if I used duct tape and wrapped my body with it then stuffed it?"  So my very first dress dummy was made 13years ago and worked wonderfully.  However, duct tape is NOT a good idea-- it gums up your pins.

What I have used in the past is a long torso, long sleeved turtleneck knit shirt.  What I prefer is a T-shirt weight knit dress so that I can be mummified as low on the hips as needed (this allows for the farthingale or hoopskirt to stay in place while you work on the project).  And I have found that clear packing tape, the cheap stuff is fine, is the best for getting mummified.

Materials:

   turtleneck or other disposable knit item (this will be cut)

   clear packing tape

   stuffing (lots and lots of it)

   hanger (optional)

   twine or clothesline rope (optional)

   sturdy bike hook (optional)

Step 1:

   Have someone use some painters tape or masking tape to mark your natural waistline, where your shoulders end, your neck bottom, top of breasts and, if you like, the bottom of the breasts.  You can also mark the center front and center back or any other marking you particularly like to have.

Step 2:

   Now the mummifying begins.  I find that putting some vertical strips of tape first to help the fabric keep from twisting too much is helpful.  Begin wrapping the body all the way around, and remember to wrap counter direction to keep from getting twisted as well.  I wrap from the neck to the hip line. 

Step 3:

   Once you are satisfied that the mummy shell should stay intact once it has been shucked, have your buddy run a pair of scissors up your back along your spine, cutting the turtleneck/dress as well.

Step 4:

   Once the shell is shucked, you can re-tape the center back seam and then stuff with whatever you have on hand.  I've used sewing cabbage* from hell*, old sheets, pillows, old clothing, anything soft.

Variations:

  I have used two methods for securing the dress dummy in an upright position.  The first was to insert a sturdy slightly curved hanger as I was stuffing the dummy so that I could suspend it from a hook on the ceiling.  The second was to level off the bottom with a tightly packed stuffing and tape to sit on a pedestal (I actually use a vertical wrapping paper Rubbermaide container).  The first was the best as I could adjust the dummy to my height, matching shoulders, so that I could get a perfect hem on my skirt, too.


IDEA #2 (Updated May 2010):
I can and do draft my own patterns on grid paper.  However I think I want something even more exact, but my clients are not always next door to me or even in the same 60mile radius.  So I am working out the following idea for dress dummies:


Materials needed:

1. Fabric any kind-- cheaper better (I used a sheet from Goodwill)--   2 yrds or more
2. velcro -- I used self adhesive (since this is an experiment)
3. safety pins 
4. Measuring tape
5. marker of some sort
6. adjustable rings (found in the home fix-it shops in the heating and air sections)
7. Stuffing-- I used pillows and cabbage from old sewing projects.

As I am not sure how practical a one-size-fits-all application would work for this, I am going to make this using a women's size 12-14 measurements.  It is my desire however to get it to work for one size fits all.-- eventually.

Ok I cut the fabric approximately by 25" wide.  Length should be about yard (or more if you wish).

I applied the rough side of the velcro (hook side) vertically along both sides of the front piece.

OK! OK! OK!  New plan!  I took an old sheet and ripped it in half.  I then marked down the center of each, one for the front and one for the back.  Starting at the top,  I use the neck to waist measurement, mark that.  Then mark the waist side to waist side; then measure up the distance of the armpit to waist at each end.  I then mark the shoulder breadth at the top.  I measure from the belly button (natural waist) to the outside of the shoulder on each side.  I mark the chest side to chest side.  Repeat what needs to be repeated on the back piece.

THen I saftey pin at the appropriate places, matching what needs to be matched.  I turn it inside out and insert a plastic bag.  Then I stuff with cabbage from hell until filled!  It give the most basic shape for your subject without having to mummify them. 

Warmest Regards,

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Chemise Thoughts

I tend to favor the split chemise--one that is open all the way down in the front.  And for me personally, to save on fabric, I usually do short chemises.  They fall to right below the butt cheeks.  Though for the ready-made I will make them fall to just below mid-thigh on a man.  This should maybe make it fall to close to the knees on an average sized woman.

A couple of variations that I do without outside influence (namely without someone telling me exactly what they want):
1.   I usually like a good box pleat at the neck and and wrists
2.  High necked chemises are my favorite
3.  I also use hook and eyes, just because I find it a bit frustrating to constantly retie strings.
4.  I will use an overlock stitch to decorate the edges of the collar and wrist pleats; sometimes a tight stitch sometimes a loose stitch.

I would include steps, and will gladly do so if there is a need, but I simply use The Tudor Taylor as my basic tool for Chemises.  Though sometime soon I will add Patterns of Fashion 4 to my library.

Warmest Regards,